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Can Anyone Climb The Matterhorn?

A dramatic sky broods above the iconic Matterhorn, in Zermatt, Switzerland

As I gaze out of my office window at one of the most iconic sights in the Alps, Zermatt’s calling card stands, sentinel like, watching over the village below. The fascination with this lump of rock has attracted many to want to conquer her and since 1865, when Edward Whymper became the first man to do so, many have succeeded.

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I feel a sense of privilege in having a front row seat and to be able to view this awe inspiring vista, I also feel an itch. I'm a reasonably fit guy and I've got many close friends who've scaled the Matterhorn. I've loved listening to their stories on return, they’ve whetted my appetite to go for it myself. Could I make it?  How about you, are you up for the challenge too?

As ever more climbers make their way to the summit it becomes ever more attractive for non-climbers and tourists who have it marked down on their personal bucket lists. So is it possible to summit for the ordinary Joe & Joan? Well yes, but there are caveats. First and foremost are three obvious requirements, you must be fit and you must have a head for heights and nerves of steel. Secondly, you must employ a guide to lead you to the top, this will knock you back CH1,000, which is not such a big investment when weighed up against the unforgettable experience and the sense of achievement as you stand on the roof of the world. 

If you’re unsure of your suitably for the task you could try a practice trek up the neighbouring Briethorn. The Breithorn is considered the most easily climbed 4,000m Alpine peak. This is due to the Klein Matterhorn cable car which takes climbers to over 3,820m. However, inexperienced mountaineers may run into severe difficulty if caution is not taken near cornices or in bad weather. If you struggle on this ascent forget the Matterhorn, it’s not for you. There’s also a training route you might like to try. This takes you from Zermatt up to Sunnegga. There are time markings on the way up, to measure your fitness levels. If you fall behind the marked times at certain points you need to seriously reconsider any attempt on the Matterhorn. The oxygen levels get very low the higher you get and what seemed easy down at 1,000m will not be such a doddle much higher up and make no mistake you will be found out. It’s true lots of people make the summit but you should never underestimate the difficulty and the dangers involved. If you were to attempt the climb and got into distress, it would set you back CH22,000 to be plucked to safety by a helicopter flown by our life-saving partners at Air Zermatt, not to mention putting others life’s at risk.

So, you’ve proved your fitness, you’ve hired a guide and you are on your way to what must be the thrill of a lifetime. The day before your attempt, you’ll make your way to the Hornli Hut. The hut is the “base camp” so to speak and you will spend the night here as you’ll have a 4am start the next morning. The hike up to hut features unrivaled close-up views to the majestic north-east face. There are also excellent views of Zermatt's other big mountains, and the impressive glaciers at the Matterhorn's base. This hike is also remarkable in that it features constant superb views of the Matterhorn. You can either trek all the way from Zermatt village, as Edward Whymper and his party did on that first successful attempt or you can catch the lift to Schwarzee. The trek from Zermatt uphill to Schwarzee will take you roughly three hours. If you want to conserve energy for the next days ascent take the lift. The trek from Schwarzee to the hut is not without it’s dangers and will give you a little taster of what’s to come. One of the most exciting sections of the walk is a very short two metre wide section of path with a shear drop of a 300m on both sides (and no rope handholds). Needless to say some people with a fear of heights might have difficulties here. It is certainly not a section I would want to cross in high winds or icy conditions!  Not long after this the hut comes into view above and the final walk up the slopes passes quickly.

The Hornli Hut has been newly renovated and extended in time for Zermatt’s 150 year celebration of that first ascent. The hut provides breakfast and dinner and plenty of blankets. Everything the hut provides has to be brought in by helicopter and it’s reflected in the price. It’s recommended you reserve a room here as it gets very busy as the hut caters for trekkers not making the attempt on the Matterhorn as well as the climbers themselves. From the Hörnli hut there are stunning views in all directions of all Zermatt's great mountains. The Matterhorn itself towers over the hut. This climber's hut is the only one in the area with a clear view of the mountain. As you crick your neck and look skyward to the summit you may have second thoughts, it a very foreboding edifice but at the same time magnificent in stature. It is worth the easy walk five minutes beyond the hut to the very beginning of the climb proper. A series of fixed vertical ropes and various plaques in the cliff face mark the start of this most famous of climbs. If you do change your mind about the ascent, a night at the hut is still a wonderful experience and the descent back down to Zermatt is a lot quicker than the ascent. You could make Schwarzsee in an hour and the the village in well under three.

So the day dawns, your early call finds you bleary eyed and excited, you probably didn’t sleep well, what with the growing apprehension and the high altitude. There are fixed ropes all the way up, your guide will have made the ascent many times, you are in good hands. Good luck, I hope you make it to the top safely and find your way down again with no dramas. This will be the best CH1,000 you ever spend, the adrenaline rush is intense and the experience is one you’ll never forget.